The New Balance 550, initially christened the P550 Oxford, emerged in 1989 as a cost-effective basketball shoe designed by Steven Smith. This model, however, was subsequently shelved, failing to capture significant attention upon its initial release. Its rebirth came in 2020, spearheaded by the collaboration with Teddy Santis, the founder of Aimé Leon Dore, who rediscovered the design within the pages of a vintage Japanese magazine, thus setting the stage for its modern resurgence.
Primarily conceived as a lifestyle sneaker, the 550 'Turtledove' seamlessly blends its original basketball shoe design with contemporary casual wear. Its rubber cupsole, featuring a medial-side exposed foam wedge, offers both cushioning and support, enhanced by memory foam-like cushioning and arch support in certain variants. The rubber outsole, often displaying a lugged grey pattern, ensures optimal traction and durability, rendering it suitable for everyday use.
The New Balance 550 has become a cultural phenomenon, notably embraced by a constellation of style icons. Kendall Jenner, a prominent figure in contemporary fashion, has been frequently sighted showcasing the 550 in various settings, reflecting its broad appeal. Kaia Gerber was seen wearing the shoe in SoHo, solidifying its place in the fashion elite. Taylor Swift, during her appearances at a Kansas City Chiefs game, also helped to further its widespread recognition, emphasizing the shoe's versatility and enduring influence.
The 'Turtledove' iteration of the 550 boasts a low-top silhouette with a meticulously panelled design, constructed from a blend of premium materials. These include ivory and off-white leather, complemented by microperforated detailing, mesh underlays and collars, suede accents, and canvas elements. Distinctive features such as the 'Flying NB' graphic on the heel, the tonal 'N' logo, '550' branding, and exposed foam on the tongue further define its structure.