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- Cut
- Low Top
- Upper
- Leather
- Colourway
- Neptune Green
Dunk Low SE 85 Neptune Green
Dunk Low SE 85 Neptune Green
- Cut
- Low Top
- Upper
- Leather
- Colourway
- Neptune Green
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Culture Note™
Designed by Peter Moore and released on 2 August 2022 as part of Nike's Dunk line. This release has a leather upper in Sail/Lapis/Off Noir/Neptune Green. The SE 85 is Nike rebuilding the Dunk to look like the original rather than the modern retro, exaggerating the proportions that the mid 1980s version actually had: a fatter tongue, heavier panels and a more upright stance. Neptune Green is the colour laid over that older shape, a deep sea green against a pale base, and the combination is the most convincing period reference the Dunk line does. It is worth remembering the era being referenced. In 1985 the Dunk was a college basketball shoe built to be recoloured by whichever programme wore it, and Nike was five years past the point where it held roughly half of the US athletic shoe market and went public.
A deep green on a bulky retro shape wants relaxed trousers. Wear it with loose washed indigo denim and a cream heavyweight tee, letting the fuller silhouette sit under the hem properly. For an autumn version, try brown corduroy trousers and an oatmeal knit, where the sea green becomes the coolest note in a warm outfit. Avoid slim tapered trousers, which fight the volume of the 85 build. Everyday walking use on a firm flat sole. Size true rather than down because of the extra interior volume. Condition the leather regularly, wipe the pale base clean rather than scrubbing, and let the tongue dry fully after wet days, since the thicker padding holds moisture.
The Dunk's authority now comes from being a period object as much as a current one, which is why Nike reissues the older proportions rather than only the colours. The company's grip on that nostalgia is earned: it was making these shoes when Air Jordans, Air Force 1s and Air Max models turned into status markers in urban and hip hop fashion, a shift that followed the 1984 Michael Jordan signing and the Spike Lee directed Mars Blackmon advertising. Buying an 85 build is buying the silhouette closer to how it looked before any of that happened, which for a lot of people is the entire point.
The 85 build is the differentiator. It uses thicker leather panels and a notably larger tongue than a standard Dunk retro, which changes the fit noticeably: more volume over the instep, a fuller feel through the forefoot and a shoe that looks bulkier on foot. Underneath is the familiar low profile foam midsole and pivot circle rubber outsole, so the ride is still flat, firm and close to the ground rather than cushioned. The green leather has enough depth to show the panel edges clearly against the lighter base. Because of the extra volume, people who normally size down on Dunks should try their true size in this build before deciding.
- Cut
- Low Top
- Upper
- Leather
- Colourway
- Neptune Green
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